Corresponding facets (pavilion facets) are now cut below the girdle; then eight star facets follow, these being triangular in sliape and pointed downwards from the octagonal sides of the table. Sixteen split facets are now made, these also being triangular in shape and their base being the girdle. There are now 33 facets —one table, eight bezel, eight star, and 16 split facets—which form the upper part of the full cut brilliant. As we have already noted, other names are sometimes applied to these facets.
The culet, collet, or culasse is the small facet made by the flattening of the sharp point on the bottom of the stone; this is now seldom seen in modern cut gems. Eight pavilions and quoins, and 16 split facets beneath the girdle are cut absolutely beneath, and corresponding to, those on the upper portion of the stone, although their length depends upon the individual specimen in hand. This completes the cutting, the finished stone now having 57 facets.
This brilliant cut brings out the “fire” in the stone, causes the light to be flashed back to the eye, and at the same time retains as much weight as possible. The stone is ready to be used in any form of jewelry, and its beauty will remain indefinitely. Repolishing of the facets may be advisable after much use, although with diamond this is very rarely necessary. It is of advantage, however, to keep the back of the stone quite clean in its setting and to remove any dirt or grease which inevitably collects in course of wear.
The rose cut is characteristic of very small, or poor quality, diamonds. It may be used on small fragments resulting from cleaving and sawing operations. Such small diamonds are often called “roses.” In this form, the base is flat, and this is often the cleavage plane; the top is curved, convex in shape, and this is covered with small facets up to 24 in number. There may be only five or seven facets in very small stones, while in others disproportionate faces may be seen. Badly cut roses of poor quality material are quite common, and they are often used in conjunction with brilliants in medium priced jewelry. The value of rose diamonds is, of course, far below that of the properly cut stone.